Victoria's Yarra Valley is home to gourmet gems and vineyard legends such as De Bortoli and Domaine Chandon. Join the food and wine trail here.
The Yarra Valley east of Melbourne held its breath for a while as last February’s Black Saturday bushfires raged through Victoria. It was a little close for comfort. However, the gods smiled and now it’s business as usual for the region synonymous with wine and good times ever since the first vines were planted in 1838, and Paul de Castella built a winery and grandly hospitable homestead in the 1850s. The Yarra used to be renowned for its long-lived cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, but more recently made its name with pinot noir and chardonnay, with sauvignon blanc now emerging for its distinctive floral (rather than green) notes. This is one of the few areas in Australia where marsanne is grown in any quantity.
The fortunes of the wine industry in the Yarra Valley have been as mixed as anywhere in the county. There were years of decline, when dairying and logging were more lucrative; when Warburton was better known for its sanatorium and Healesville was full of guesthouses where Melburnians retreated for the summer. But since vines were replanted in earnest about 40 years ago, and big companies began to acquire holdings in the area, the Yarra Valley has grown into one of Victoria’s best-known wine regions.
The surrounding cool rainforests are national parks and tourist attractions. Dairying has been transformed into the boutique cheeses of Yarra Valley Dairy, and Healesville has become a different kind of retreat. It is “the belly” of the Yarra Valley, full of gastronomic enterprises. Pasta? Here it is, along with an excellent range of sauces. Bakery? Tick. Butcher? Yes, indeed. Gastro-pubs? Of course. But don’t expect to find kangaroo on the menu. Healesville Sanctuary is not far away and is reserved solely for native animals, allowing visitors to stroll among the wildlife. Look, but don’t eat.
Local produce could fill the table: apples, cherries, berries, peaches, brussels sprouts, shallots, preserves, venison, Kennedy and Wilson chocolate, pasta, cheeses.
Some of Australia’s big wine names are there. Domaine Chandon and De Bortoli, Coldstream Hills, the legendary Mount Mary and Yeringberg. Big company wineries (Foster’s, De Bortoli) neighbour smaller ones. The mix is important to the strength of the place, as is the mix of farming and bush, residences and tourism.
The best way to explore the Yarra Valley is to follow the example of the river: don’t rush. There are three highways that traverse the valley: the Melba (named for the great soprano Dame Nellie Melba, who retired there), the Maroondah (which leads to Healesville) and the Warburton. Each has its own character and attractions.
Eat & drink
Dominique Portet
870 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream.
+61 3 5962 5760.
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Healesville Hotel
256 Maroondah Highway, Healesville.
+61 3 5962 4002.
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Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander
336 Maroondah Highway, Healesville.
+61 3 5962 6111.
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Bella Vedere Cucina
Badger’s Brook Winery, 874 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream.
+61 3 5962 6161.
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Yering Station
38 Melba Highway, Yarra Glen.
+61 3 9730 0100.
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Coldstream Hills
31 Maddens Lane, Coldstream.
+61 3 5964 9410.
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De Bortoli
58 Pinnacle Lane, Dixons Creek.
+61 3 5965 2271.
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Tarrawarra Estate
311 Healesville-Yarra Glen Road, Yarra Glen.
+61 3 5962 3311.
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Killara Estate
Warburton Highway & Sunnyside Road, Seville East.
+61 3 5961 5877.
Mont De Lancey
71 Wellington Road, Wandin.
+61 3 5964 2088.
Stay
Chateau Yering
42 Melba Highway, Yering.
Outlook Hill
97 School Lane, Healesville.
The Sebel Heritage
Heritage Avenue, Chirnside Park.
Healesville Apartments
18 Symons Street, Healesville.
Source: Qantas The Australian Way November 2009