The Hunter Valley in New South Wales is the semillon heartland, but other parts of Australia are finally paying homage to this unsung hero.
At a recent wine-show judges’ dinner, winemaker Phil Ryan opened a bottle of the McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant 1984 Lovedale semillon. It was, frankly, one of the greatest wines I have ever had. And it is with excitement that I watch the evolution of winemaker Jim Chatto at Pepper Tree wines, winner of the 2009 Hunter Valley Winemaker of the Year. His 2009 Limited Release Hunter Valley semillon ($22) is youthful, fresh, lemony and lively, and his 2009 Alluvius Reserve ($30) is structured and serious.
Australian semillons are underrated. Although widely respected, a surprisingly small number of wine consumers appreciate their exceptional quality and value. It doesn’t help that semillon is sometimes hard to find, often neglected on wine lists and bottle-shop shelves. Devotees may have to buy direct from the producer.
In Australia, the semillon heartland is the Hunter Valley. There it is something of a chameleon, changing from a bright, lemon-infused drop when young to an extraordinarily complex wine with age – nutty and smoky undercurrents are common, as are hints of lanolin, hay, lemon blossom and flowers. The classic style is dry and unoaked.
Most Hunter semillons have a relatively low alcohol level of between 10 and 11.5 per cent. Acidity rather than mid-palate sweetness drives the structure, and the wines’ restraint allows them to be consumed throughout a whole meal without fatiguing the palate. They shine their brightest when partnered with food, slicing through any richness and holding their own against chilli and spice.
The Hunter producer Tyrrell’s makes an extensive and admirable range of semillons. Quality is high, from their entry point Old Winery to their classic Vat 1. The wines of Belford, Stevens and HVD (Hunter Valley Distillery) showcase the different styles of individual vineyards. “Hunter semillon allows me to work with something that is truly unique in the world of wine,” Bruce Tyrrell says.
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant is also a champion of the variety, producing the complex and affordable Elizabeth as well as its pinnacle Lovedale semillon. The recently released 2005 Lovedale, available nationally ($65), is simply spectacular, with gorgeous ripe grapefruit flavours. You can also purchase the lemon-infused, pre-release 2006 ($55) through the cellar door. Other notable Hunter producers include Thomas Wines, Pooles Rock, Saddler’s Creek and Capercaillie.
In other parts of Australia you will find pineapply semillon from the Clare Valley, grassy examples from Margaret River and rich styles from the Barossa Valley. Semillon also works well blended with sauvignon blanc, with Margaret River making a particularly distinctive and popular style.
Just as screw caps have done wonders for preserving freshness in riesling, the same is true for semillon. Next year marks the much-anticipated first release of Tyrrell’s Vat 1 under screw cap with the 2003 vintage.
Semillon Selection
2006 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon $48
The gorgeous citrus and honeysuckle characters of the nose charm from the start. There is good acidity and with each sip a new character is revealed – a sign of a truly complex wine.
2005 Tyrrell’s wines Stevens Semillon $30
The combination of old vines and the distinctive soil of the Stevens vineyard results in a wine with powerful lemon flavours and a mineral edge. Freshness is the essence of this beautiful wine.
2004 Peter Lehmann Margaret Barossa Semillon $28
This superb wine shows attractive smoky overtones heightened by notes of pure lemon blossom. The wine’s hallmark is the residual nuttiness, which lingers well after swallowing.
2009 Thomas Braemore Semillon $27
This is a fresh and vibrant semillon with alluring aromatics. It has a strong citrus core with subtle floral notes on the nose and grassy nuances on the palate. There is good palate weight as well as a little spice on the finish.