01 August 2008
Sue Dyson & Roger McShane
87 Main Road, Penguin, Tasmania, Australia.
+61 3 6437 2000.
Tiny Penguin, on Tasmania’s north-west coast, is classic sea-change territory. There’s plenty of drama and some tension here as long-time locals adapt to an influx of former city dwellers. But the one change everyone seems happy about is Wild, which, dare we say it, has been wildly successful since it opened. Its modern, often Asian-inspired cuisine fits the town’s relaxed and casual beachside mood. Thai-inspired grilled calamari with a soba noodle salad, teriyaki quail with pumpkin fetta salad, or Vietnamese beef salad with fried coconut pancakes seem just right on a sunny day with Bass Strait as the backdrop. Not everything has an Asian take, though. Grilled blue-eye trevalla with lemon and tartare sauce, and seared venison on a warm potato salad with pickled beetroot head in a very different direction and go well with a side serve of exemplary green vegetables. Classic desserts include lemon tart and chocolate mousse. Be sure to book, empty tables are unlikely if you just drop in.
Open: Lunch and dinner Wed-Sun. Licensed. Mains $20-$28.
Source: Qantas The Australian Way May 2008
Updated: August 2008