25 May 2009
Peter Forrestal
Parmelia Hilton, 14 Mill Street, Perth, Western Australia, Australia.
+61 8 9215 2421.
The Hilton was the first local hotel to dispense with its fine-dining restaurant and, in the 11 years since, the Globe has led the way with lighter, fresher dishes in this bright, modern dining space. At lunch the tasting table concept (weekdays only) offers a new look at buffet, while the adjacent bar is one of the best in town. Individual head chefs have put their own stamp on menus, but the mission is to deliver fresh local produce in complex and imaginative ways. Entrees such as cheddar and brussels sprout twice-baked soufflé with poached pears, charred asparagus and a sweet paprika coulis are more than conducive to bemusement. But more often than not the diner will discover a pleasant interplay of tastes and textures, such as carpaccio of Carnarvon zucchini with a shaved fennel and grapefruit salad and a tangy lemon vinaigrette. Or a mix of cuisines in the one dish: ginger and black bean barramundi with thyme and pea risotto, tomato and parsley salsa. Stemware is excellent and the wine list has a strong presence of the best local wines. Service is knowledgeable, assured and thoroughly professional.
Open: breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Licensed. Mains $34-$44.
Source: Qantas The Australian Way June 2009