Great Thai cuisine is ubiquitous in Sydney. One inspired chef on a mission is the reason why.
In a recent article, Sydney Morning Herald food reviewer Terry Durack asked: “Why is Thai food better in Sydney than anywhere else in the world?” The simple answer to that is... David Thompson. After arriving back in Sydney from Thailand in 1991, Thompson spent his early days at the trailblazing Darley Street Thai restaurant in Kings Cross, then at Sailors Thai in The Rocks. Not just wonderful places to eat and learn from his anecdotes about Thai food, these were also a breeding ground for many of the Australians now turning out authentic Thai food here and abroad. Thompson graduates include Martin Boetz (Longrain in Surry Hills, Sydney, and now Melbourne), Ty Bellingham (Sailors Thai), Max Mullins (Oceanic Thai, Clovelly), Ben Thomas (Banana Blossom, Cremorne), as well as David King, now in Seoul, and Ross Lusted in the US.
I worked with Thompson and others in the early ’90s to convince small growers in northern Queensland that we did indeed want galangal, scud chillies, kaffir lime leaves and fruit, fresh turmeric, krachai and pak chii farang – all the ingredients fundamental to getting the right Thai flavours. Thompson was also integral in getting food critics to see Thai cooking for what it is: complex, flavour-driven and one of the world’s most significant cuisines. It was his ability to deliver food they had never tasted before and to articulate its essence that allowed them to speak with authority about the food they were eating and enjoying.
So his new cookbook Thai Street Food was eagerly anticipated. Illustrated by Earl Carter’s amazing photographs, it doesn’t disappoint. Indeed, such is the power of Thompson’s book, I was tempted to jump straight on a plane to Thailand.
Stir-fried clams with chilli jam & Thai basil
Although small clams are the molluscs most commonly used for this dish, surf clams, scallops, mussels, prawns or even fish can be used in their place. I also rather like the combination of crispy roast pork and squid stir-fried with chilli jam, but this is hardly street food. Clams usually need to be purged of sand and grit by being left to steep in salted water overnight, although sometimes you can buy clams that have already been cleaned. Most Thais will go to the market to pick up their chilli jam, where they can choose from many varieties: some extra hot; others with or without dried prawns. While commercial chilli jam is generally more acceptable than commercial curry pastes, homemade adds real depth
and quality to the finished dish. Serves 3-4.
Ingredients
500g (1lb) small clams
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2-3 tablespoons chilli jam
2 kaffir lime leaves, torn
1 stalk lemongrass, trimmed & bruised – optional
Good pinch of white sugar
1-2 tablespoons fish sauce – to taste
Generous handful of Thai basil leaves
1 long red or green chilli, sliced, deseeded
if desired
Method
Purge the clams overnight in salted water if necessary, then rinse and drain well.Heat the oil in a well-seasoned wok and add the chilli jam. Stir in the clams, along with the kaffir lime leaves and the lemongrass if using. Simmer until the clams open, then season with the sugar and fish sauce – but be careful as the clams will be quite salty. You may need to add a tablespoon or two of water to prevent the chilli jam from catching, especially if the clams are reluctant openers. Finish by stirring in the Thai basil and chilli. It should taste rich, slightly oily, sweet and salty, yet not too spicy. Serve with steamed rice.
Sydney chef/restauranteur Neil Perry designs Qantas First and Business menus. For more recipes and cooking tips visit his website.
Recipe from Thai Street Food (Lantern, $100) by David Thompson, photography by Earl Carter