At Western Australia’s North West Cape, the desert meets the sea and the snorkeller meets sharks the size of whales.
SNORKELLING IN THE OCEAN just off Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia means blue infinity in every direction – but what’s that eerie pale oval approaching under the surface? Widening and narrowing and growing larger by the second, it gradually resolves into the enormous gulping mouth of a whale shark. Stand by – or rather, swim by – for what is one of Australia’s grandest marine spectacles.
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Unsurpassed globally for regular, reliable and accessible whale shark encounters, World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef runs 260km along Western Australia’s remote North West Cape, about 1300km north of Perth. Every year – between late March and July – these normally elusive filter-feeders arrive for an annual mass-spawning of coral which, aided by fortuitous currents, turns the outer reef into a nutrient-rich soup of plankton and krill. A relatively recent addition to this prehistoric dinner engagement are gatecrashing, snorkelling homo sapiens, drawn to feed their sense of wonder on sharing saltwater with the largest of all shark species.
The adventure begins on very dry land. Although flanked by vast tracts of water – Exmouth Gulf on one side, Indian Ocean the other – North West Cape is an arid, baked wilderness bisected by the rocky heights of Cape Range, an extinct limestone reef from the region’s deeper past.Anchored off a lonely desert boat ramp 38km from Exmouth township, Three Islands’ 17m Draw Card is one of a tiny gaggle of whale-shark boats (there are seven Exmouth-based tour operators) ferrying their patrons aboard by inflatable Zodiac.
First on the agenda is a morning snorkel on the reef, a handy acclimatisation and a superb experience in itself. Amid a kaleidoscope of colourful sea life, the crew’s two whale-shark “spotters” – Ellece Nicholls, a marine biologist, and Emma Goodfellow – and videographer Meg Green, free dive with mermaid-like agility, pointing out creatures of interest.Usual Ningaloo suspects include parrotfish in all hues of green and blue, frilly orange lionfish, giant clams, tawny nurse and leopard sharks, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, barracuda and bull rays. The easily found sailfin catfish (small, black and fantailed) is one of 50 species endemic to the reef.
The Draw Card cruises south through shallow turquoise waters. We’re heading for one of only three navigable passages to the open ocean, soon revealed by a gap in the white line of offshore surf. The shark-spotting plane radios success and the deck ripples with excitement. As we power into position several kilometres out to sea, the 19 tourists aboard are divided into two snorkel groups and re-briefed on protocols – no touching, no duck-diving, keep 3m clear of any whale shark (and 4m from the tail).
Whale-shark watching works for one simple reason. “They’re sun worshippers,” spotter Ellece Nicholls says. On clear days, plankton rises to the light, attracting whale sharks to the surface where they linger to hoover up the bounty. The biggest enemy is heavy cloud cover, rarely a problem at Ningaloo.
Think of it as a game of marine leapfrog. The boat stops ahead of a whale shark and the first snorkellers jump into the sea to tag along as it swims by, with the Zodiac deployed to aid any stragglers. Group two drops in further along the shark’s probable path. After the whale shark leaves its first escorts, the boat collects them and moves ahead of group two (now in shark conference) to repeat the process.
Group one don fins and stride off the duckboard, looking for the spotter’s hand signal. Nicholls points and faces go under – nothing. Then a casual, over-shoulder, underwater glance reveals a blue-grey speckled bulk the size of a van. Veering before reaching us, the silent giant had almost slipped by unobserved behind our backs.
Wondrous as it is, there’s no time to stop and wonder. Admiring a whale shark is not a passive activity. It’s time to snorkel as fast as humanly possible, which inevitably falls short of any whale shark in middle gear. But following its wake is unforgettable. The towering column of tail sweeps with effortless power, slowly shrinking and dissolving a gentle titan into the deep-blue curtain of ocean ahead.
Minutes later, adrift in the open sea, we regroup for pick-up. Nicholls says we saw a juvenile male, “only” 4m long, but quite chunky, with a barrellish girth. While 12m whale sharks have been seen here, the typical Ningaloo visitor is a 4-7m male. And far sooner than expected, we’re ready for another dip into his world. “This is what we call a blind drop,” Nicholls says, meaning no-one knows exactly where the whale shark is. But in we go and there he is. Afterwards comes an unexpected bonus, a hefty green turtle flapping through the blue, like a marine bumblebee in flight.
Leaving our teenage shark to another nearby boat – the industry here is amiably cooperative – we shift closer to the reef wall for whale shark number two. Here the seabed is dimly visible, with shadowy bommies far below, the length of a tall building away. Festooned with remora and trailed by a retinue of golden trevally, this slightly larger shark gives a clear view of its white-spotted, ridged back, the starlike pattern imitating sunlight dappling the surface.
The day’s final whale shark is further out. Over the abyss again, a diffuse star of light beams from below, but it’s only a trick of the sun. Our largest (5m-plus) specimen’s head-on approach is signalled by the flattened white oval of Exmouth’s biggest mouth. Dipping gently up and down, feeding at a leisurely cruising pace, it scoops invisible fare with every rise. From the corner of the sack-like maw, a much smaller eye watches its watchers keeping pace for those few precious minutes. Afterwards, on deck, we’re treated to a topside view when it skirts the boat ahead of group two, its broad head emerging from the deep like a submarine milky way.
Five swims with three individuals filled an hour of shark time (the maximum duration of interaction allowed). The exhilaration of eye contact with our planet’s biggest fish lingers throughout lunch and the post-shark reef snorkel. The lasting impression is one of great peace and beauty, the awe of approaching creation writ truly large.
Plenty of mystery accompanies this majesty. While Exmouth is a leading centre for tagging and research, the whale shark life cycle remains largely unknown – and if they really do migrate north from Ningaloo to breed in South-East Asia, as some experts contend, why are so many seen travelling south along the reef? South is definitely the safer option for them right now; the greatest threat they face is their popularity as a soup garnish in Asia – a single whale shark can fetch $US1500 for its fins. It is hoped that the Exmouth business model will be adopted in countries still slaughtering them, saving the species via the economics of ecotourism.
One of the world’s few corners where whale sharks enjoy total protection, Ningaloo Reef is Australia’s largest fringing coral reef – unlike the Great Barrier Reef, it often begins right at the beach. Other rare visitors to this pristine haven include humpback whales,
sheltering in Exmouth Gulf from July to November, while marine turtles nest and hatch between November and February. Human nesting options centre on Exmouth itself, where beachside Ningaloo Resort has rooms from $230, although the tented beach pavilions of isolated Sal Salis (from $730 twin-share) offer the Cape’s most luxurious eco-immersion, walking distance from both the wild canyons of Cape Range and the submarine safari of the reef itself.
Three Islands Whale Shark Tours, AUD$375/$265; visit
whalesharkdive.com or exmouthwa.com.au
Source Qantas The Austrailan Way January 2012