664 Dean Street, Albury, New South Wales, Australia.
+61 2 6041 1288.
Sorry Victoria – here’s one border dispute we’re not going to give away. Sure, it’s closer to Melbourne than Sydney (300km versus 500km), but chef Jodie Jones and maître d’ Steve Carne have put together such a pleasure-packed menu in such a small and lovely establishment that we have to be a bit territorial and claim it as our own. Faced with gutsy entrees such as the smoked ox tongue and warm cauliflower salad dressed with mustard and the warm mushroom salad with basil fritters and Dijon cream, you can understand our position. It’s especially gratifying to see local produce making a more-than-token appearance: Rutherglen lamb features, as does local rainbow trout. The restaurant’s signature dessert, lamington ice-cream with vanilla marshmallow and chocolate sablé, is one of those desserts about which countryfolk and city slickers can’t help but agree. And if vintage port, tokay or muscat are your thing, you’ve found your nirvana. With access to some of the nation’s best producers, they’ve put together an extensive collection well worth losing yourself in.
Open: lunch Thu-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat. Licensed. Mains $29-$34. WebsiteSource:
Qantas The Australian Way May 2008
Updated: August 2008