Seasalt At Armstrong’s, Brisbane

01 September 2008

Margaret Kennedy

Inchcolm Hotel, 73 Wickham Terrace, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
+61 7 3832 4566.

Here’s fine dining that’s discreet and edgy, with polished timber floors in a heritage CBD building, ever-changing local art, masses of natural light by day, and – uniquely, surely – a Siamese fighting fish on every table. As a young blade, executive chef Russell Armstrong worked at several of Europe’s great restaurants before devoting his best to his hometown, where he has owned a number of notable establishments over the years. A stickler for perfection in all departments, the chef practises what he preaches. On the plate, confidence and imagination combine to create sublime food that celebrates its subtropical latitude. Fittingly, seafood is a specialty. You might not come across better-treated barramundi, and the range of locally caught seafood is broad and beckoning: “Hyderabadi” mixed local seafood grill, for instance, arrives with fragrant spice sauce and green bean and almond salsa. A connoisseur’s wine list at a slew of prices has desirable imports and Australasian labels, among them some fine wines, optimally stored, available by the glass.
Open: lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat. Licensed. Mains $33-$34. Degustation price on request.
Website

Source: Qantas The Australian Way September 2008

Located where Brisbane’s street of medical specialists joins Turbot Street, the Inchcolm, a boutique hotel of some charm, has one of the city’s best restaurants. The tiny dining room, well-lit during the day by sunshine, is presided over by a consummate manager with an informed passion for the Seasalt wine list. A well-balanced collection, it includes some old-vintage Champagnes and a good number of worthwhile wines by the glass. The food is, in a word, delightful. Under the watchful eye of Russell Armstrong, protégé Shannon Batton continues the delivery of excellence that diners have come to expect. The composition of dishes is one of the hallmarks: ingredients are paired in subtle ways and the effect is light and deft. Seafood is a specialty, for instance this barramundi: seared fillet with ragout of fennel confit, Champagne-braised lettuce, peas, clams and bouillabaisse broth. Or picture this: sweet corn velouté with sautéed crab, crispy calamari and chive oil. 

Source: Qantas The Australian Way June 2009

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