A well-prepared artichoke is one of life's simpler treats.
I remember the first time I tasted a globe artichoke – in the late 1970s in Sydney. It was as simple as it gets and marvellous: the pointy ends cut, the pith removed and the stem peeled. It was boiled and served with vinaigrette.
The waiter explained that each leaf was to be pulled off, the fleshy end dipped in the vinaigrette and then scraped behind the teeth as you pulled the leaf out of your mouth. It was a revelation – and so hands-on. Then would come the prize: the artichoke’s edible heart and stem.
I have gone on to eat many artichokes and still love them as much as I did that first time. Indeed, it started me on a journey to discover what I could do with them. They are wonderful raw. Peeled and thinly sliced, marinated in lemon juice, salt and pepper and extra virgin olive oil, they exhibit a marvellous nuttiness. Boiled, steamed, sautéed, grilled or fried, they are well suited to pasta sauces or salads.
I love it when the small heads arrive at the markets in spring. You simply sauté them in oil and garlic and you have the perfect accessory for fresh egg noodles.
In Australia, this beautiful edible thistle is in season even in autumn and winter; just waiting to play a starring role in many recipes. Make sure you peel them and cover with acidulated water (water with lemon juice added) if not using them immediately, or just rub with fresh lemon, as they do oxidise quickly.
To prepare a globe artichoke
Break the stem off the artichoke (this can be peeled and cooked with the artichoke) and pull off the outer leaves until you see the bright green supple flesh underneath. Lay the artichoke on a board and trim about 3cm (1¼ inches) from the top. Trim around the base of the stem and carefully hollow out the core with a teaspoon to remove the choke. Rub the inside of a cut lemon over every surface of the artichoke to stop discolouration. You now have an edible artichoke. If you want to cook them, do so in boiling salted water, and they’ll be tender in about 20 minutes.
Recipe from The Food I Love by Neil Perry, photography by Earl Carter
Sydney chef and restaurateur Neil Perry designs Qantas First and Business menus. For recipes and cooking tips visit: Website