Neil Perry: Dessert storm

30 June 2009

Neil Perry

Neil Perry and Catherine Adams certainly make a great (roast) pear.

Olive oil and sauternes cake with roast pears.

Having Catherine Adams, one of the very best pastry chefs in Australia, working for me has an advantage beyond the truly dreamy desserts she and her team turn out. When I’m feeling lazy, she will make something simple and delicious for my dinner parties. The best desserts reflect the season and, for me, usually incorporate beautiful ripe fruit.

I don’t always cheat. I do make my desserts at home for friends and family. It is quite satisfying to whip up a pav or bake a cake in the kitchen in the morning; it reminds me of my childhood. Not only are sweet treats the perfect way to finish a meal, they can make an indulgent breakfast, morning tea or supper.
Wonderful pastries, for example, are the sort of thing you’ll go out of your way for. In Paris, my wife Sam and I have been known to embark on a $40 cab ride across town to get an amazing apple tart that costs just $3.

At this time of year, I love to make this olive oil cake with pears. It is the perfect seasonal dessert.

Olive oil & sauternes cake with roast pears

I first cooked an olive oil cake out of the Chez Panisse pastry book and have loved making them ever since. We have paired this one with pears, and a wonderful match it is. You could, however, just serve it with a little whipped cream. Serves 8./

Ingredients

For the roast pears
4 beurre bosc pears, halved or quartered lengthways, core removed, stem intact
80ml (2½ fl oz/cup) sauternes dessert wine
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons caster (super-fine) sugar

For the cake
115g (4oz/½ cup) caster (super-fine) sugar
2 eggs
185ml (6fl oz/¾ cup) olive oil
125ml (4fl oz/½ cup) sauternes dessert wine
80ml (2½ fl oz/ cup) milk
finely grated zest of 2 lemons
185g (6½ oz/1½ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder

For the sauternes syrup
115g (4oz/½ cup) caster (super-fine) sugar
125ml (4fl oz/½ cup) sauternes dessert wine
thick (double/heavy) cream

Method
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Place the pears in a roasting tin, drizzle with the wine and oil and sprinkle with the sugar. Roast for 45 minutes, turning occasionally, until tender and starting to caramelise. Allow to cool to room temperature.

To make the cake, lightly grease an 11cm x 22cm (4¼ x 8½ inch) loaf (bar) tin, and line the base and sides with baking paper. Beat the sugar and eggs together in a large bowl with an electric mixer until pale and creamy. Add the oil, wine, milk and lemon zest and beat until well combined. Add the combined sifted flour and baking powder and slowly beat until just combined. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin. Bake alongside the pears for 40 minutes or until cooked when tested with a skewer. Allow to stand for 5 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack to cool completely.

To make the sauternes syrup, place the sugar and 2 tablespoons of water in a small pan and stir constantly over very low heat, without letting it boil, until the sugar has completely dissolved. Increase the heat and allow the syrup to simmer, brushing the side of the pan with a wet pastry brush if necessary, until the syrup turns a golden colour. Keep an eye on the syrup at all times, as once it starts to colour, it will continue to darken very quickly. Turn off the heat, add the wine and stir to combine. Some of the syrup may solidify. If this is the case, return it to a very low heat until it dissolves again. Set aside to cool. Serve the cake with the pears, drizzle with the syrup and add a dollop of cream.

Recipe from Good Food by Neil Perry, photography Earl Carter

Sydney chef and restaurateur Neil Perry designs Qantas First and Business menus. For recipes and cooking tips visit:
Website

Source: Qantas The Australian Way July 2009

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