It’s been lauded as a model of a future city, but Montreal hasn’t abandoned its enticing past.
While the cobblestone streets and 19th-century facades of Old Montreal are still a cinematic double for old Paris, Montreal, in the Canadian province of Quebec, can no longer can be thought of as merely a Gallic stand-in for jet lag-averse Americans. Canada’s second-largest city has undergone an exhilarating revitalisation, making its way back onto the short list for a new generation of travellers.
From its 1642 foundation as a French colonial fortress and later role as a British colony, the island of Montreal has weathered its share of turbulence. Most recently, a decade of recession plagued the 1990s – unemployment rose and many of the city’s creative class jumped ship for Toronto.
However, a spirit of optimism now pervades the city, with residents rediscovering how eminently liveable Montreal is. It has a tech-savvy, highly educated young population, and economics guru Richard Florida lauds it as a model of the future city, noting its educational institutions, affordable housing and cultural pedigree. Montreal has even begun to lure talent from Toronto and other North American cities.
With more than 25 per cent of its population from an immigrant background (about 80 languages are spoken), Montreal is also one of the globe’s most diverse cities. Claiming the largest French-speaking population outside Paris, the city’s main influence and defining feature is, however, French.
Heralded last year as one of the world’s most exciting food cities by Gourmet magazine, Montreal is a true epicurean paradise. From unfussy BYO restaurants in the trendy Le Plateau precinct to the decadence of foie gras-topped poutine (Québécois comfort food of fries, gravy and melted cheese curd) at gourmet temple Au Pied de Cochon, Montreal is a city of unapologetic bon viveurs.
Montreal’s excellent restaurants have certain advantages. At their disposal is a staggering array of market-fresh produce, world-class artisanal cheeses and superb meat and seafood. Montreal is home to handcrafted chocolates that rival those of Paris, and has arguably the world’s best bagels. Its ethnic cuisine is the product of waves of Greek, Portuguese, Italian, Persian and Chinese immigrants.
While many other North American cities effectively kill the buzz with prohibitive licensing laws, Montreal is packed with fun-loving night owls. Late-night dining is de rigueur, the bars stay open until 3am and after-hours clubs often rage well beyond sunrise.
The city’s bohemian spirit – captured memorably during John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s second 1969 “bed in” for peace at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel (the first was at the Amsterdam Hilton) – is still alive. Locals continue the tradition of Tam Tam drumming circles in Mount Royal Park, while the indie scene (bands such as Arcade Fire) has worldwide attention.
This spirit of colourful congregation has established Montreal as a city of festivals. Besides the annual jazz festival, there are some 90 world-class festivals and celebrations such as the independent-minded Pop Montreal, the edgy Osheaga rock festival and Just for Laughs Comedy Festival.
Recently christened North America’s first City of Design by UNESCO, Montreal is shaping up as one of the world’s most design-conscious destinations. IM Pei’s skyscraper Place Ville-Marie (1961) paved the way for a modern design love affair that continued with Israeli architect Moshe Safdie’s Habitat 67, built for the World’s Fair. The modular apartment building has just celebrated its 40th birthday and, like Montreal itself, thrills today more than it ever did.
Stay
Casa Bianca
4351 Avenue de l’Esplanade.
+1 514 312 3837.
Hotel Place d’Armes Hotel & Suites
55 St-Jacques Street West.
+1 514 842 1887.
Hotel Nelligan
106 St-Paul Street West.
+1 514 788 2040.
Shop
Librissime
62 St-Paul Street West.
+1 514 841 0123.
Philippe Dubuc
4451 Rue Saint-Denis.
+1 514 282 1424.
Renata Morales
5392 Boulevard St-Laurent.
+1 514 271 5061.
Eat
Au Pied de Cochon
536 Duluth Avenue East.
+1 514 281 1114.
L’Express
3927 Rue Saint-Denis.
+1 514 845 5333.
Fairmount Bagel Bakery
74 Fairmount Street West.
+1 514 272 0667.
Lachine Market
1865 Notre Dame Street.
+1 514 937 7754.
Leméac
1045 Laurier Street West.
+1 514 270 0999.
Mr Pinchot
4354 Rue de Brebeuf.
+1 514 522 7192.
Drink
Baldwin Barmacie
115 Laurier Street West.
+1 514 276 4282.
Bu
5245 Boulevard St-Laurent.
+1 514 276 0249.
See & Do
Habitat 67
2600 Pierre Dupuy Avenue.
+1 514 866 5971.
Old Montreal
The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts
1380 Sherbrooke Street West.
+1 514 285 2000.
Mount Royal Park
Source: Qantas The Australian Way June 2008