Global Roaming: Mo' Momofuku

28 January 2009

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane

A peek inside one of New York's most exclusive eateries that will leave you wanting mo'...

  • Momofuku ko, New York
Although fairly new (opened during 2008), New York’s Momofuku Ko has already joined the A-list of restaurants headed by Spain’s elBulli (website) where it’s almost impossible to get a table. But while the elBulli reservation frenzy only happens once a year, at Momofuku Ko a battle wages daily on the internet at 10am when the reservations for seven days ahead are released. They disappear in 1 or 2 seconds.

Is it worth trying to get one of these precious seats? Definitely, especially if you want to see the future today. It’s a portent for what we’re sure to see more of – inspirational and highly individual dishes of the sort normally seen in high-end restaurants but delivered in an informal, relaxed environment (read: sitting at a rather small bar on a stool).

The seating is one of real attractions though. On our visit one chef cooked for four diners, with much of the final preparation of the dozen or so small dishes done in front of us and plenty of chances to ask questions about what you’re eating. Questions come quick and fast with food like radish soup, almost the consistency of congee, with water chestnuts; lamb belly and mustard greens seasoned with curry powder and celery seed; and layers of pepper or grated foie gras over lychees, riesling jelly and hazelnut brittle. If you score a table, take the offered option of matched wines and sakes by the glass – it’s almost impossible to match wines to this food yourself.

Momofuku Ko
163 1st Ave, New York.
Online bookings:  website

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