Lynwood Cafe, New South Wales

04 August 2008

Pat Nourse

1 Murray Street, Collector, New South Wales, Australia.
+61 2 4848 0200.

Lynwood is in many respects the epitome of the regional restaurant. It’s in the certifiably tiny burg of Collector, a stone’s throw from Lake George and about 45 minutes from Canberra. The low-set, whitewashed building sits by the bridge on the curve of a creek as you leave the one-pub town. Its roof is corrugated iron, its knives bone-handled and fruit trees groan in the yard. The menu is best described as “nanna goes to the Mediterranean”, only in this instance, nan can really cook like the blazes. Bangers and mash, beef and stout pie and the ploughman’s platter might be homely, but they’re far from slapdash. Rustic becomes more cucina rustica with the genuinely seasonal, produce-driven likes of asparagus and broadbean risotto, while the Tuscan bread salad, the char-grilled kingfish with capers, tomatoes and olives, and the sage-scented veal scaloppini with radicchio are simply good eating in anyone’s language. And, like any good nonna’s/nanna’s table, the cakes are absolutely not to be missed.
Open: lunch and afternoon tea Thu-Sun, dinner Fri-Sat. Licensed & BYO. Mains $18-$27. 
Website

Source: Qantas The Australian Way May 2008
Updated: August 2008

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