26 May 2009
Christine Salins
Hotel Realm, 18 National Circuit, Barton, Canberra, ACT, Australia.
+61 2 6163 1818.
Executive chef Anthony Fullerton declares he believes in sourcing the highest-quality ingredients and certainly succeeds with outstanding products such as Cape Grim beef, Petuna ocean trout and West Australian Q lamb. All speak for themselves, with the menu largely confined to simple grills served with roasted kipfler potatoes and a choice of bearnaise sauce, chilli jam or red wine jus. There are half a dozen pasta and rice dishes, and a similar number of “short plates” suitable for entrees or light mains. The charcuterie plate, with an assortment of cold meats, veal and pistachio terrine, beetroot chutney and house-made grissini sticks, is enough for two or three people as a starter. The Cape Grim rib-eye is cooked a touch longer than requested, but is nevertheless tender and flavoursome, with the sauce conveniently served in a jug on the side. All the desserts are tempting, but it’s hard to go past the chocolate and caramel fondant pudding.
Open: breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Licensed & BYO ($8 corkage). Mains $19.50-$39.50.
Source: Qantas The Australian Way June 2009