If Edinburgh has romance, then Glasgow has style – here's the low-down on some of the best sleeps, eats, shopping and sights in this recently-designated UNESCO City of Music.
Separated by only 67 kilometers, Edinburgh and Glasgow are bound to attract comparisons. But while tourists have had a long running love affair with Edinburgh, many are only just beginning to discover the edgy charms of Glasgow, Scotland’s largest city.
Glasgow is marked by its vibrant contrasts. The city skyline is now composed of, not only imposing 19th century red brick Victorian buildings, but world-class contemporary architecture; traditional pubs stand adjacent to subterranean bars populated by skinny-jeaned habitués; and the cultural scene – which has produced cutting-edge fashion designers, Turner prize-winning artists and cult rock bands – is hotter than it’s ever been. As the 2014 Commonwealth Games approach, Glasgow is increasingly moving away from its grim industrial past and charging into a bright 21st century future.
Stay
Hotel du Vin & Bistro
1 Devonshire Gardens.
If you’re the type that sips martinis from crystal, loves to soak in indulgently deep bathtubs and prefers the finest Egyptian linens, then this haven of tasteful luxury is for you. Positioned on a patrician tree-lined street, the hotel is a short stroll from the city’s West End – a fashionable enclave of fine restaurants, designer boutiques and buzzy bars. Before you retreat to your room each evening, be sure to take some time to relax by the fire, where you can choose from a menu of 400 whiskeys.
Eat
Stravaigin
28 Gibson Street.
+44 141 334 2665.
The name means ‘wander around’ in old Scots, and the menu at this West End classic, split between two floors, adopts a similarly peripatetic approach. A delicate balancing act between the traditional and the contemporary, the dining room features taxidermy, modern art and rustic banquettes. The market-driven menu achieves the same mix, moving seamless from Scottish classics (haggis with neeps and tatties) into experiments in global flavour (a spicy Asian seafood stew). Rugged, chic and adventurous, the restaurant exemplifies modern Scottish cuisine.
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Listen
King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut
272a Vincent Street.
+44 141 221 5279.
Recently designated a UNESCO City of Music, Glasgow has produced some of the world’s hottest musical acts. This iconic music club possesses some impressive music credentials: the venue held the first Scottish gigs for Crowded House and The Strokes; is the place where Oasis was discovered and signed; and has booked the likes of Radiohead, Blur and The Manic Street Preachers. Like the grungy erstwhile New York club from which it takes its name, the emphasis here is on the music, so expect great acoustics, cold beer and a no frills vibe.
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See
Macintosh’s Glasgow
What Gaudi is to Barcelona, Charles Rennie Mackintosh is to Glasgow. A genius of art deco and creator of the Glasgow design school, Mackintosh, an artist, designer and architect is finally receiving the global attention he deserves. Take in Glasgow through Mackintosh’s works, by purchasing a £12 Mackintosh Trail Ticket at major sites or online from the Mackintosh Society. The tour, which allows unlimited travel on public transportation, includes admission to many essential Mackintosh sights, including House for an Art Lover, Scotland Street School, Queen's Cross Church and Mackintosh’s most famous masterpiece, the Glasgow School of Art, which celebrates its centenary this year.
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Kelingrove Art Gallery and Museum
Argyle Street.
+44 141 276 9599.
A much beloved day out for Glaswegians of all ages, this venerable museum features everything from ancient fossils to exhibitions about Dr Who. Transformed from a dark Victorian into a light-filled affair, the museum was reopened in 2006 after a three-year renovation. Unlike many other institutions, exhibits are organised according to theme rather than chronology, giving visitors the feeling that they’ve been set loose in one enormous treasure chest.
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Barras Market
Gallowgate, Merchant City.
+44 141 552 4601.
At first it may seem this market is devoted solely to designer knockoffs (Louise Witton, anyone?), but delve beyond the counterfeit to experience an authentic slice of Glasgow life at this famed market. The barras (meaning barrow) sells everything from vintage designer clothing, 1950s furniture, salvaged objects d’art and vintage records. Even if you leave empty handed, make sure you explore the food vendors, where you can find everything from local mussels to Indian dosa carts.
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If you are looking for more tips on Glasgow/Scotland, be sure to see Aaron's Scotland Essentials from Qantas The Australian Way August 2009.
Photo: "Glasgow Dawn" from Flickr Creative Commons, user Keyser_ Soze
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