Chez L'Ami Jean, Paris

Sep 15, 2008

by TERRY DURACK

If you have time for only one bistro in Paris, make it this one. Originally opened by a Basque nationalist in 1931, it was taken over in 2003 by talented Stphane Jgo. While the place has retained its cosy, rustic feel – legs of air-dried ham hanging from the ceiling and pelote racquets, berets and rugby balls as decor – the cooking now has jaded regulars rolling their eyes in pleasure. In Jgo’s hands, the traditional, hearty Basque cooking moves to another level. Start with a wooden board of sensational terrines, a basket of charcuterie, a jar of cornichons and crusty bread – as much or as little as you want. It’s easy to forget there is still an extraordinarily good dish of suckling pig, confit Pyrennean lamb, braised beef cheeks, or fish soup a l’ancienne to come.
Dinner costs around 40pp ($65) plus wine; prix-fixe menu 30pp ($50) plus wine.

See full article: Paris: To dine for
Source: Qantas The Australian Way September 2008

comments powered by Disqus