The festival may be over and the weather may be getting colder, but the fab vintage clothing, architecture, good eats and stylish stays transcend all seasons.
When August rolls around each year, the Scottish capital of Edinburgh becomes the site of one of the globe’s biggest parties as it hosts the dynamic Edinburgh Festival. But you need not visit during the festival to appreciate this enigmatic city, which offers a captivating blend of historic grandeur, authentic charm and contemporary edge. We recently published some Scotland essentials; here are some more Edinburgh highlights (Glasgow to come):
Shop
Vintage
Skip the standard high street chains (Top Shop et al) and take a plunge into Edinburgh’s vibrant vintage clothing scene. While many stores may appear like repositories of Studio 54 ensembles, there is some serious sartorial gold to be uncovered beneath the kitsch.
Prepare to lose hours at the venerable Armstrong’s (established 1840), where the merchandise runs the gamut from swinging sixties Go-Go boots to very of-the-moment embroidered Sgt Pepper style jackets (54 Clerk Street, +44 131 220 5557).
Located in the old city, Herman Brown, another vintage stalwart, sells everything from army surplus to vintage YSL smoking jackets. The men’s selection, while on the small side, is well edited and features vintage cufflinks, Pringle cashmere sweaters and polo boots (151 West Port, +44 131 228 2589). Considered Scotland’s premiere bijouterie, Joseph Bonnar is a jewel thief’s fantasy, overflowing with huge sapphire cocktail rings, Victorian chokers and precious amulets from far-flung locales. Worth a visit, even if you’ve already maxed out your credit cards (72 Thistle Street, +44 131 226 2811).
Eat
The Outsider
15-16 George IV Bridge.
+44 131 226 3131.
Don’t be fooled by the name – this restaurant, situated on a bridge that connects the city’s old and new towns, is actually considered something of a local’s secret. While the menu is touted as modern Scottish, the cuisine embraces global influences, with Mediterranean and Asian inspired dishes sharing menu space with Scottish classics. Designed for sharing, the food highlights include a selection of grilled skewers and generous bowls of mussels bathed in a rich Provencal style sauce (garlic fries are an essential accompaniment). With its large split-level dining room overlooking the castle, the restaurant is one of the city’s buzziest.
Stay
The Balmoral Hotel
1 Princes Street.
+44 131 556 2414.
In the last decade, Edinburgh has welcomed a clutch of design driven boutique hotels, among them the first property from the Italian fashion chain Missoni. But if electronic music and tech gadgetry isn’t your cup of tea, reserve a room at this classic address, a sanctum of refined luxury smack bang in the heart of the city. The 188 guest rooms, many with impressive castle views, are an elegant blend of tradition and modern luxe, with a colour scheme of greys, browns and rich ochre, inspired by the pristine Scottish Highlands. For serious indulgence, reserve some time for the excellent Balmoral spa, which features a beautiful 15-metre swimming pool.
Do
Scottish Parliament Building
Parliament Square.
With its Georgian houses, gothic churches and medieval relics, “the Athens of the north” is rightly considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The building that still has everyone talking is Scotland’s new Parliament building, designed by Catalonian architect Enric Miralles. Beloved by architecture fans (it won the prestigious Stirling prize in 2005) and bemoaned by many locals due to its staggering 800% budget blowout, the building was constructed with a mixture of steel, oak, and granite. Like many such structures, the genius design is best appreciated once inside, where cantilevered windows, complex timber motifs and design follies abound. The Main Hall, which is home to an exhibition, shop and café, is open to the public. Parliament tours, which include a visit to the Debating Chamber, private rooms and the Garden Lobby, are also offered when Parliament is in recess.
Nightlife
Lulu
125b George Street.
+44 131 225 5005.
Housed in the basement of the boutique Tigerlily Hotel, this nightclub thinks of itself as a Manolo Blahnik floating in a sea of brogues (it bills itself as “Opulence, with more than a hint of decadence”). And sure, when you’re tired of the pub scene, the club offers a dose of frothy glamour. The décor sure looks the part, with a Saturday Night Fever style flashing dance floor, walls embedded with Swarovski Crystals, and low slung private tables. The music, like the crowd, is an unpredictable mix – prepare for anything from the latest Girls Aloud hit to throwback techno.