Discover the tropical true-blue pleasures of Darwin, the city on the edge of the outback.
Darwin has a harbour? Overseas visitors – and many Australians – are often surprised to learn that this Top End town has a harbour twice the size of Sydney’s, with waterfront restaurants, sandy beaches and sunset cruises on luxury yachts.
Darwin serves its harbour with a ridgy-didge, Northern Territory flavour. Stokes Hill Wharf where the action takes place is no Circular Quay. Parking is free and easy, the dress code is casual and the best seats for tucking into your takeaway barramundi and chips are outside by the water.
“Stokes” shines at night and on weekends. Its friendly mix of families, locals, couples and backpackers has an atmosphere almost as electric as Darwin’s legendary thunderstorms. Arrive in time to watch a famous Northern Territory sunset as a jazz band plays and people dance under the lights, under the stars and on the edge of the wharf.
Harbourside restaurants offer some of the freshest fish in the country – and a welcome side serve of air-conditioning. Try the seafood platters at the popular Crustaceans On The Wharf or Jetty Restaurant.
The nearby Deckchair Cinema screens outdoor movies from April to November. Or glam it up at Cullen Bay with its marina full of yachts, waterfront cafes, a day spa and the city’s most beautiful homes. This is also the place to book a fishing charter in your bid to catch a “barra” in the Arafura Sea.
As a truly outback harbour, Darwin does cruising differently. Cape Adieu Harbour Cruises encourages BYO beer and wine, providing an esky to keep your drinks icy cold. Points of interest include the naval base, Frances Bay fishing facilities and confiscated Indonesian fishing boats.
City of Darwin Cruises keeps it real with no commentary and simple snacks of cheese and crackers. Overnight adventures include sailing out to a sheltered anchorage to go fishing or spot turtles, or crabbing at Bynoe Harbour. Or join Australian Harbour Cruises for a cruise on the historic pearling lugger Anniki, drinking bubbly, sampling pearl meat and listening to stories of the old Torres Strait pearling days. Then, if the history bug has bitten, check out the Fannie Bay Gaol Museum, back on shore.
Diving is also fascinating, as much of the harbour’s history is hidden underwater. Scuba divers can explore shipwrecks from World War II and Cyclone Tracy (including the ferry Mandorah Queen), sunken refugee boats, coral reefs and sponge gardens.
This quiet, remote harbour was raided in 1942 by the same Japanese fleet of warplanes that attacked Pearl Harbor, but more bombs were dropped on Darwin. Older Australians will remember Darwin Harbour for the air raids of WWII, but today this hot spot buzzes with the sound of people enjoying the laid-back lifestyle of Australia’s northernmost harbour-side haven, on the doorstep of the outback.
Stay
Novotel Darwin Atrium
100 The Esplanade.
Quality Hotel Frontier
3 Buffalo Court.
Skycity Darwin
Gilruth Avenue, Mindil Beach.
Eat & Drink
Crustaceans on the Wharf
Stokes Hill Wharf, Kitchener Drive.
+61 8 8981 8658.
The Jetty Restaurant
Stokes Hill Wharf.
+61 8 8942 1500.
See & Do
Australian Harbour Cruises
+61 8 8941 4000.
Cape Adieu Harbour Cruises
+61 8 8942 2011.
City Of Darwin Cruises
+61 4 0111 8777.
Deckchair Cinema
Jervais Road, Wharf Precinct.
+61 8 8981 0700.
Website
Northern Territory Tourist Commission
+61 8 8951 8471, or 13 61 10 (Australia only).
Website
Source: Qantas The Australian Way April 2006
Updated: September 2008