Australia Calling: Gourmet granny grub in Sydney

26 February 2009

Karla Courtney

Two Sydney eateries serving up gourmet comfort food in style.

  • Avo on your toast, Coffee Cup on Crown, SydneyDIY toasting, Coffee Cup on Crown, SydneyCoffee Cup on Crown, Sydney
Coffee Cup on Crown
368 Crown Street, Surry Hills.
+61 2 9368 0004.

The deceptively named Coffee Cup on Crown actually is much more than that – distinct breakfast, lunch and dinner menus all offer a wide variety of modern, creative spins on homemade classics.

A breakfast highlight is the “all you can eat” toast special: for $6.50 you can go crazy with slices at your own retro red toaster. For lunch try a salami, cheese, gherkin, fresh tomato and German mustard toasted Turkish bread sandwich. At dinner time, chef “Boston” Dave proudly cooks up mains like eye fillet with blue cheese butter, garlic whipped potato and seasonal veg; seared pork loin with an apple and fig chutney good enough to be eaten on its own; or a fine marinated lamb back strap. The difference between them and your grandma’s – the portions are healthy but not overwhelming and the presentation is magazine cover-worthy.

The selection of all-day sweets includes apple and berry crumble, decorated cupcakes and little pots of chocolate mousse. And for the younger (or simply restless) crowd, there are crayons to colour all over the papered table at dinner.

Betty’s Soup Kitchen
84 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst.
+61 2 9360 9698.

This is much more like nana's house – from the no-nonsense, mix-matched cutlery and simple ingredients to the smells of old wood and musky fabrics. The only non-grandma element is the shabbily (and not in a trendy way) dressed waiters who will happily listen in on your conversation and maybe even add their two-cents.

The selection of soups, pasta and pies; the handsome helpings of warm bread and butter; and the substantial salad bar will make you want to shy away from dessert, but try and think of those yummy $5 bread puddings or crumbles served with King Island cream before taking your plate up for seconds. The $1 corkage fee is also pretty sweet.

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  • that's lovely cafe. i'd like to go next time

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