13 April 2009
Karla Courtney
Buenos Aires has welcomed us with excellent weather, friendly faces, quirky bars and prime cuts of meat.
On the advice of our very friendly, and stylish, hotel staff (cE Design Hotel, Marcelo T. De Alvear 1695, Barrio Norte, +54 11 5237 3100) we had our first lunch at La Cholita (Rodriguez Pena 1165, Barrio Norte) where adults nursed super-sized bottles of Quilmes and the young ones coloured all over the paper table tops with crayons. All the food came out on thick, wooden tableware, the portions were enormous and the steaks twice as thick as the cutting boards they were served on. Today's meal at Munich Restaurante (Ortiz Recoleta, just across from the Recoleta Cemetery, +54 11 4804 3981) came with high expectations after it was recommended to us by a couple who has been dining there for 50 years. Old-school German/Argentine menu, waiters in white coats and ties and generous portions are among the standards that haven't changed since it opened. We could see why they keep coming back.
At the request of our Twitter friend @MsRebecca, we went on a hunt for more addresses of San Telmo bars like the characterful Bar El Federal (Carlos Calvo 599, +54 11 4300 4313). Just down the street from La Brigada (no we haven't eaten there yet, but it's on our list) we found Achtung Bar (Estados Unidos 523, +54 11 4404 7123) filled with the chatter of a few lively locals, a mix of upbeat local and Morcheeba-style lounge music, a decent selection of beers and three Peso (under $1) empanadas. The San Telmo Square is pretty much a 'take your pick' bar zone for those who like it busy, however, Nefertiti (Humberto 1, +54 11 4361 2666) stood out to us; probably because of the gaudy, quasi-Egyptian inspired interior but also thanks to the more intimate live music area upstairs (where, for better or worse, people are allowed to smoke). Cocktails are on the pricey side (25 Pesos) but worth it to be in one of the quieter and quirkier bars on the Square. More to come...