Restaurant Amusé, Perth

Mar 23, 2009

A fine-dining leader in WA for some time, this year alone, it has clocked up several serious awards, including Australian Gourmet Traveller 2012 Australian Restaurant Guide’s top Perth restaurant. Each of the 10 degustation menu courses is explained to guests – sometimes by the waiters, sometimes by those who labour at the stoves. It’s a nice touch. Crisp, delicate snacks include the best house-baked sourdough I’ve tasted, served with smoky, house-made butter. Tender marron at room temperature comes with discs of rockmelon, watermelon and cucumber and some edible nasturtium leaves. White asparagus, broad bean flowers and asparagus jus is matched with a herbal Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc from Nelson. One particularly notable dish arrives in a sealed bottling jar, which opens to release a cloud of smoke and reveal a soft, slow-poached egg, enoki mushrooms and pine nuts. Hadleigh Troy is a talented chef with a well-organised brigade in the kitchen that is mirrored by the team on the floor. Expect a memorable experience.
Open: dinner Tue-Sat. Licensed. Degustation or vegetarian degustation $AUD125. With matched wines add $AUD75pp.

Qantas The Australian WayDecember 2012

Perth’s finest restaurant offers only a degustation menu (with a vegetarian alternative) and is full of surprises: a beetroot salad with cocoa and coffee granules, powdered olive oil, beetroot leaf and watercress. There’s an interplay of textures and balance between the earthy juiciness of the beetroot, the savoury coffee and the cocoa’s dry sweetness. Courses are small and refined, such as lightly poached gold band snapper with pan-fried Rottnest scallop, or roasted Amelia Park lamb loin rolled in onion ash. Degustation nine courses $125pp (matched wines $70pp extra). To drink International wines by the glass and an impressive range of Champagne; cutting-edge producers from Australasia, Europe and the Americas.
Open: dinner Tue-Sat. Licensed.

Hadleigh Troy’s degustation menus, which change monthly, offer a range of innovative courses that challenge, surprise, satisfy and delight. His cooking melds a surety of technique, an impeccable sense of balance and a respect for produce; each dish has a subtlety, delicacy and finesse. This is food to contemplate and chat about, a cerebral as well as a gastronomic experience. A small square of roast mulloway fillet sits in an asparagus puree, topped with asparagus foam and accompanied by an asparagus spear and strips of confit tomato, three tiny gnocchi parcels, a few broad beans, and some clams flecked with whiteanchovy. Service under Carolynne Troy is assured and professional. The wine list is excellent.
Open: dinner Tue-Sat. Licensed. Degustation $AUD120 (Tue-Sat), petit degustation (five courses) $AUD85 (Tue-Thu).

: Qantas The Australian Way April 2010

After gaining excellent experience in Melbourne and London, young Perth couple Hadleigh and Carolynne Troy have been working hard to establish Amus on the fringes of the city. The quality of Hadleigh’s work behind the stoves has placed the restaurant close to the pinnacle of dining in Perth. The nine-course degustation menu changes monthly (with choice of main) and features complex dishes skilfully orchestrated to provide a satisfying and memorable dining experience. Clever use of curtains enables Amus to create a private room for 10 to 12 people. A group of up to 20 can be placed in a curtained area separate from the main dining area, with a separate entrance. Polished, professional service and an imaginative and carefully chosen wine list.
Open: degustation Tue-Sat ($AUD115), petit degustation Tue-Thu ($AUD80). Licensed, with the possibility of negotiating a BYO option.

Source: Qantas The Australian Way April 2009

Try Perth’s best-kept dining secret before adoring fans make it the toughest place in town to find a table. While the neighbourhood is hardly salubrious, it’s situated in a large, dimly lit, comfortable room with modern, padded chairs and all the napery of fine dining. Owned and run by talented chef Hadleigh Troy and his wife, the poised and professional front-of-house Carolynne – locals with extensive experience in some impressive establishments interstate and overseas – it is already among the best places in Perth to dine. Troy’s cooking shows attention to detail, refusal to compromise with produce, the imagination to create complex, neatly balanced dishes with the technical skill to execute them with flair and a lightness of touch. Marron can appear in two guises. A consomm, transformed into pannacotta, is topped with strands of seaweed, marron jelly and three potato tuile, in turn topped with Maldon sea salt, sansyo pepper, and bonito and nori. This is followed by a creamy sauce with girolles, butterfly pasta and roasted marron. The nine-course degustation menu builds slowly through similarly complex and satisfying dishes. The wine list, mainly French and Australian wines, is a promising work in progress and the stemware is excellent.

Source: Qantas The Australian Way July 2008

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