Why the ski resort town of Aspen has been a magnet for the rich and famous for more than 50 years.
Stroll downtown Aspen’s red-brick streets today and it’s hard to believe this ritzy resort town was once so destitute that some residents, unable to maintain their large Victorian homes, moved into the majestic Hotel Jerome for $11 per month. These days that minuscule amount won’t even buy you two bags of the famous Aspen Kettle Corn. A plethora of designer boutiques – Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni – and six furriers seduce shoppers. The average family home costs $US5.3 million ($5.45m), an abundance of fine-dining restaurants tantalises the tastebuds and an array of year-round cultural activities beckons visitors to this ski resort.
Unlike other premier ski destinations, which have been built around their phenomenal skiing, Aspen – covering a mere 9.47sq km and nestled in the heart of the White River National Forest – initially thrived on its mining industry and was only transformed into a ski community as an afterthought when hard times hit.
By 1891, 11 years after it was settled, Aspen had become the largest single silver-mining region in the US. At its peak the city boasted 12,000 residents, six newspapers, four schools, three banks, electric lights, a hospital, an opera house, and a small brothel district. The good times ended when the US government repealed the Sherman Silver Act (which required the government to purchase silver) in 1893. The huge quantities of silver in circulation had caused a drastic decline in the US gold reserve. By 1935, only 700 residents remained. These are referred to as the “Quiet Years” in Aspen.
When the Aspen Mountain ski area opened in 1947, boasting the world’s longest chairlift, Hollywood’s big names took notice and the city has never looked back. Today’s population is 6000, bulging to 27,000 in the high season. Some of the original Victorian houses still stand and although a few have been converted into restaurants and bookshops, their presence provides a nostalgic touch, which outshines the pomp that could easily dominate this town. Wheeler Opera House (1889) features more than 300 events annually, while 30 galleries show works ranging from glass art to paintings.
Music, film, food and wine festivals dominate in summer, but life revolves around the world-class skiing from late November/December through to mid-April. Don’t be surprised to spot a celebrity – a few are part-time residents – or Olympian on the slopes. But please don’t stare. Aspen may have the accoutrements of a big city, but it’s a small town at heart.
Ski
Closest to downtown, Aspen Mountain is the place to see and be seen. The socialising on this 996m mountain, also called Ajax, is great, but it’s probably best to avoid the slopes unless you’re an intermediate, advanced or expert skier. Venturing off the groomed runs will give you black and double-black diamond trails all to yourself.
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Aspen Highlands is the Aspenites’ favourite mountain, where visitors can earn their local badge of honour by hiking 20 to 45 minutes to the 3777m summit of the Highland Bowl, from which the view is superb, then sailing down the steep (48-degree) trails, a must-do for strong skiers. Foodies will adore the resort’s aptly named Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro, which features Austrian chef Andreas Fischbacher’s delicious wild game, fondue and soups.
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There’s a huge amount of wide-open blue runs through to expert terrain at Snowmass, with a 1343m vertical rise. In November 2007, Snowmass unveiled its new base village (including an $18.8m Treehouse Kids’ Adventure Centre, pubs, restaurants and shops) that will expand through to 2011. Neophytes will love the new beginners’ area at the top of the Elk Camp Gondola.
There’s a reason US sports channel ESPN holds its Winter X Games on Buttermilk every year: it’s superb for snowboarders. Buttermilk boasts a 167m superpipe and more than 30 rails. The beginner terrain, which is open and gently undulating, also makes this the perfect resort for new skiers and families.
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Stay
Hotel Jerome
330 East Main Street.
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The Little Nell
675 East Durant Avenue.
Sky Hotel
709 East Durant Avenue.
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See & Do
212 gallery
Suite 201, 525 East Cooper Avenue.
+1 970 925 7117.
David Floria Gallery
525 East Cooper Avenue.
+1 970 544 5705.
Galerie Maximillian
602 East Cooper Avenue.
+1 970 925 6100.
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Silver Circle Ice Rink
433 East Durant Avenue.
+1 970 925 1710.
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Shop
Explore Booksellers & Bistro
221 East Main Street.
+1 970 925 5336.
Gorsuch
611 East Durant Avenue.
+1 970 920 9388.
Kemo Sabe
434 East Cooper Avenue.
+1 970 925 7878.
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Eat
Lulu Wilson
316 East Hopkins Avenue.
+1 970 920 1893.
Matsuhisa
303 East Main Street.
+1 970 544 6628.
Montagna
675 East Durant Avenue.
+1 970 920 4600.
Drink
Belly Up
450 South Galena Street.
+1 970 544 9800.
Caribou Club
411 East Hopkins Avenue.
+1 970 925 2929.
Source: Qantas The Australian Way January 2008