25 May 2009
Peter Forrestal
Burswood Entertainment Complex, Great Eastern Highway, Burswood, Western Australia, Australia.
+61 8 9362 7551.
Burswood Casino’s best restaurant succeeds because of the quality of Sean Marco’s modern Australian food. He has a skilled hand with seafood in dishes such as the generous tower of salad, in which Pemberton marron is served with spears of cos and soft quail egg. Thinly sliced, seared tuna and contrasting tiny rings of grilled squid are perfect by themselves or dipped in balsamic or black olive puree. Similarly, a main of roasted dhufish is just cooked, gently flaky to the touch and an admirable contrast to a potato-and-watercress cake. A special of pork belly is rich and deeply flavoured, with the crispy crackling a lingering memory. The desserts tend towards the decadent with the inverted cone of Torrone ice-cream peeling away its white chocolate crust to reveal a runny toffee centre. The comprehensive wine list has 27 vintages of Penfolds Grange for any big winners from the casino who wish to celebrate. Service under new manager Folpmer Houwert is showing more polish.
Open: breakfast Sat-Sun, lunch & dinner daily. Licensed. Mains $26-$48.
Source: Qantas The Australian Way June 2009